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Strictly European Autosport - View topic - E39 carrier bearing, trans mount, and resonator delete DIY
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E39 carrier bearing, trans mount, and resonator delete DIY 
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SEA black-sheep
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Location: San Antonio, Tx
New post E39 carrier bearing, trans mount, and resonator delete DIY
Tools you will need:
A buddy
12mm socket
13mm socket
14mm socket
18mm thinwall box wrench
13/16's socket 1/2in drive
Big 1/2 inch drive breaker bar
10mm wrench
8mm wrench
jack stands
and the parts (UUC red trans mounts, oem carrier bearing, and exhaust gaskets I didn't need:
Image

First, get the car in the air. Be sure to put the jack stands on the factory jack points, which look like rubber chunks about a foot in front of the wheel (or a flat area of metal with a gap between the plastic cover where they used to be if they fell off, which in my case they did). Place a jack under the diff, steering clear of the drain bolt and using a rag between the jack and diff. Then place the jack stands (at equal heights) at the jack points, being sure to put a rag between the stands and the car to minimize damage.

Here, I had it on ramps because I didn't need the wheels to rotate freely yet:
Image

First, start out by removing the entire exhaust. The first thing to do is to unplug the O2 sensors and remove the little protective covers where the plugs meet. They have two plastic 10mm nuts each, so be careful not to strip them. Once the cover's off, pull the plugs apart. Then you take the actual exhaust down. Don't even try to slide the rubber hangars off, it's a pain. Instead, unbolt them from the car. You will find one 13mm nut at the rear, two 13mm nuts at the "Y" resonator, one 13mm nut at the exhaust crossmember plus the four bolts from the crossmember itself, and the four nuts at the headers, also 13mm (I could be wrong with the sizes, so have all the sockets handy)

Here's the crossmember:
Image


And here's what the exhaust looks like once completely out of the car:
Image

Now we did a little side tracking and, having both a torch and a welder handy, decided to remove the rear resonator to give the exhaust a little more grunt.

First, we marked the exhaust with soap stone where it was to be cut:
Image


Then we got to cuttin!
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
...and so on and so forth
Yea, I know it's hideous, but it works, and it was free!

...Anyways, back to the driveshaft.

Remove all the heat shielding, which I forgot to take pictures of. There is four pieces: One main center piece held on by the crossmember and two little 10mm screws with brackets that hold the O2 sensor wires, two side pieces held on by 3 10mm nuts each, and a rear piece held on by the center heat shield and two more 10mm screws.

Next, support the tranny with a jack and take off the trans crossmember. First, remove the O2 sensor wires from the crossmember and get them out of the way. Don't worry about mixing them up later, just remember that the longer one goes to the driver's side and across the crossmember. There is three 13mm bolts on each side, then a nut that is from the actual trans mounts (I actually used a 1/2 inch wrench for these). Take off the bottom nuts, then loosen the top nuts on the mounts, and they should slide off. On the passenger side, there is yet ANOTHER bracket for those O2 sensor wires held on by the passenger side top nut for the mount (can be seen a couple pics down). Leave it on the wires, it won't get in the way.

Pic of the crossmember:
Image

Now, take this time to install the new mounts on the crossmember. There is a notch on the mounts that goes towards the bottom, so it's pretty hard to screw this up. Be sure to torque the mounts to 16lbs ONLY, or else you risk excessive vibration.

With the tranny supported by the jack (or cinder block, jack stand, ...etc), you are ready to start taking off the driveshaft!

First, you will need to remove the driveshaft from the guibo. We found the best way to do this was to use a 13/16's wrench that was pushed up agianst the car and a 13/16's socket with a big breaker bar being pushed by two legs and stabilized by a very brave person's hand. Here's a pic of the guibo with the new mounts installed (pic obviously taken later)
Image


You will only need to remove three nuts/bolts, as there is only three that hold the driveshaft to the guibo (the other three hold the guibo to the trans). Be sure the car is in neutral and the handbrake is on. Now, as said before, try to anchor a wrench on the car (trust me, holding it won't end well) and have someone push with their feet on the breaker bar while you stabilize it to try to loosen the bolts. WD-40 helps here. When you get one loose, remove the handbrake, rotate the driveshaft till the other one is accessible, and repeat until you have all three off. Use a wire or a zip tie to hold the driveshaft up while you get the rest off. Next, there is the rear of the driveshaft. There is six nuts at the rear (13mm or 14mm, I forget) that are also very tight, on the opposite end of the CV joint:
Image

Remove these, then remove the two nuts that hold on the old carrier bearing:
Image
Image

Now you should be able to get the whole driveshaft down (with a little muscle and elbow grease, of course):
Image

At this point, be sure to very accurately mark the halves around the carrier bearing so they will line up perfectly, or else you risk the whole car shaking horribly from an unbalanced driveshaft:
Image

Next, to separate the halves of the driveshaft, there is a bolt in the center of the shaft right by the U-joint that has a washer and a spacer on it. Use an 18mm thin wall box wrench to remove it (It is VERY tight, so you might have to get creative with large pipes for leverage):
Image

Once you remove it, the bolt will have a large washer and a very small spacer that goes under the washer which can be seen as #10 on this diagram:
Image

Remove the old carrier bearing, and press on the new one, being sure that the sleeve faces towards the guibo (again, refer to the diagram). We did this by using the old carrier bearing and a small piece of pvc pipe as spacers, and a rubber mallet as...well as a rubber mallet. Now assemble the driveshaft keeping in mind the order that everything went together. Also, use this opportunity to grease the CV joint:
Image

Now, install everything back in the car and tighten everything EXCEPT the carrier bearing. Once the front and rear are secure (with at least 85lbs of torque on the front and about 50lbs in the back), push the carrier bearing about 2mm forward, then have your buddy tighten the nuts. This ensures that it doesn't wear prematurely by compensating for movement (information compliments of john at rhine west). :
Image

Now, bolt up the transmission crossmember, keeping in mind all the little brackets that hold the O2 sensor wires. I don't have torque specs on the bolts (remember, the nuts on the mounts are 16lbs), but they felt to be about 25lbs when I was removing it, so that's what I torqued it to upon installation. Remember the bracket on the top of the passenger side mount that goes between the washer and nut. Same pic of the crossmember/new mounts in place:
Image

At this point, you are ready to start putting up the heat shielding again. Start with the little side pieces (3 10mm nuts each) and be sure to tuck the O2 sensor wires under them, as they were before. Now, install the little piece in the back with the two 10mm screws. Finally, you install the large center piece with two 10mm screws up front (the rear is secured by the exhaust crossmember). This also secures the front of the smaller shield.

Now, you are ready to install the exhaust. jack up the rear, and align the front of the pipes to the headers (easier said then done):
Image

once you get both sides on, tighten them to about 25lbs of torque:
Image
Image


Then, bolt the rear hanger with the 13mm(?) nut, using the jack to position it. After that, slide the hanger bracket at the "Y" resonator in place (a little dificult, but doable) and tighten the nuts. Then bolt down the exhaust crossmember in place (which secures the heat shields) and also put on the nut that holds the hanger in place on the crossmember:
Image

Then Finally, reconnect your O2 sensors and put the covers over the plug, again being careful not to strip the plastic 10mm nuts.

Then lower the car off the stands very slowly (I use a large monkey wrench on the jack handle to ensure a slow controlled descent) and take it for a test drive. If you don't notice any crazy shaking at speed (though if you did the trans mounts, you will notice a little increased vibration and sound from the stiffer mounts), your done! Pat yourself on the back!

...and for good measure, here's the office security, my dog chase:
Image

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2001 team alba bombardier ds650


Last edited by a540i-6 on Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Fri May 30, 2008 6:17 pm
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good write-up. That stock exhaust is fugly.

Someone needs to buy a lift for us to use. Harold, I nominate you, in your new house :rr:


Fri May 30, 2008 10:47 pm
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Fantastic write up. :thumbsup: Reminds me of me way back when. Ruben you need to add this to the diy.

Where there is a will there is a way. Words to live by.


Sat May 31, 2008 4:39 am
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So you decided the u-joint was not bad after all?
Super fore-thought to take pics; I never think of it till I am almost finished with a project. :banghead:


Sat May 31, 2008 7:05 am
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Thanks guys. I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to change it, so I decided to make one for those who don't want to spend big monies to have it done. And yea, I decided that if I was going to spend $300-$400 bucks on a new driveshaft, I might as well make sure that it was the problem. Turns out that it was the carrier bearing :supz: The new tranny mounts are cool, but they transmit more vibration than I thought. I might be downgrading to UUC black mounts in the future, but they'll do for now. Im gonna do a write-up on how to remove this lil bastard next:

Image

I had it done on my old car, and it made a world of difference! It went from slipping into second to chirping third :eek: And I figure it's easy as hell to do, so why not.

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Sat May 31, 2008 11:41 pm
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:-? delete?
What's with the hole? Not finished?

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Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:17 am
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SEA black-sheep
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It says "and so on and so forth" after that pic. We did finish, but my brother wouldn't let me take a picture of the outcome because he was emberassed. I had told him to just cut everything off and put a curcular patch on it, but he insisted this was easier. He ended up having to cut puzzle pieces out of a piece of steel we had lying around. Such a dumbass.... But oh well, I can't weld so I guess I can't complain.

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Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:58 pm
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Nice write-up.

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Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:20 pm
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a540i-6 wrote:
It says "and so on and so forth" after that pic. We did finish, but my brother wouldn't let me take a picture of the outcome because he was emberassed. I had told him to just cut everything off and put a curcular patch on it, but he insisted this was easier. He ended up having to cut puzzle pieces out of a piece of steel we had lying around. Such a dumbass.... But oh well, I can't weld so I guess I can't complain.

Ah, ok, so it was patched completely... I was confused for a bit there. Thought you all came up with some uber crazy hole method that made it sound good without leaking! :nasty: Nice write-up BTW.

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1977 Chevy Malibu Classic
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1988 VW Scirocco 16V
1989 Honda Accord 4Dr
1994 VW Jetta 2.slow
2004 Mercedes-Benz ML500
2006 Mercedes-Benz C230 Sport


Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:57 pm
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k, fixed the realoem link.

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Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:28 pm
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New post Re: E39 carrier bearing, trans mount, and resonator delete DIY
This thread was a great help as I swapped out my driveshaft this past Saturday. I had a bad CV joint, it started squeaking on deceleration, then got worse and developed a bad vibration, all in the span of open day. Swapping it wasn't as bad as I thought.

I did want to pass on some tips which may help others.

1) the 18mm combo wrench is for the Guibo bolts/nuts. I used a 18mm socket on a 1/2" breaker bar on the bolt heads. I then used the box end on the nut side. I used a trick shown to me a while back: you take another, larger combo wrench and place the box end on the open end of the first wrench to obtain ladditional everage. Thus, I pushed the wrench towards the breaker bar. Not too much effort required.

2) Orienting the Guibo: it's not quite as straightforward as I've read in a numerous posts. You can't align the molded arrows with both the driveshaft and tranny output shaft flanges. It's either one of the other. You can, however, orient the thickest part of the guibo in relation to the driveshaft rotation. In a nutshell, you want to be rotating into the thick part of the guibo. Mine came with an instruction sheet with diagram.

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Mon Dec 20, 2010 12:28 pm
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