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Strictly European Autosport - View topic - DIY: Replacing front sway bar on MKIII....
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DIY: Replacing front sway bar on MKIII.... 
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New post DIY: Replacing front sway bar on MKIII....
Ok, I am going to do my best to show how to replace the front sway bar on an MKIII GTI/Golf/Jetta and Corrado. I did not use a manual or any other book to do this so I am sorry if it is out of sequence to what a manual might say. This is the way I did it and it worked fine. ;)
First things first, you need to get your car up. For those that aren't that low it isn't too bad, just stick the jack under there and jack the car up. But for those of us that are a little low you are going to need to use some 2x4's or make a cool ramp like I did...
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Of course, if you happen to have a lift in you garage then you wont have to worry about this. Not all of us are so lucky though. Anyway's, the part of the car that I used to jack the car up was right where the subframe meets the body of the car.
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After it is high enough up you are going to put a jack on the body of the car where there is the ridge. I don't know how to better explain it but the picture clearly shows where I put it.
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I then jacked up the car on the other side in the same place.
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Then I put the other jack in the same location on the other side. It is imperative that you use jacks! You might have to be doing some shaking of the car while you are under here and you don't want to risk your life with a hydraulic jack holding the car up. Make sure the parking brake is on and after it is up like this get out from under the car and give the car a little push to make sure it is secure. I also put something behind the rear tires just for safety's sake. Anything will work, a piece of wood, a brick, etc.
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Now that the car is in the air you need to take off the wheels.
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For those with skid plates like me, you obviously need to take that thing off. This thing has really been getting a good workin' from me since I have had it.
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First thing you need to do is take off the sway bar end links from the control arms. You will need to take them off both sides. This is used with a 13mm socket wrench and closed end wrench at the other side. Sorry for the crappy picture, the flash wouldn't work for some reason while taking this picture.
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You can now pull these down a little bit to get them ready to come out. You might have to give a little tug to get them down though because the sway bar is tight while it is all bolted in place.
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Next you will take out the rear subframe bolt. I believe this is an 18mm or a 19mm. You will take that bolt out on both sides.
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Next you will take out this 13mm bolt on both sides. This bolt is for the clamp that holds the sway bar and sway bar busing in place. You also need to take out that bolt to the left of the bolt I am taking out. That bolt goes though the control arm bushing and into the body of the car. You will take out this bolt on both sides.
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Now the next thing I did is I put a jack on the control arms on both sides right here. You are going to loosen the front subframe bolts now and this is more of a safety precaution. You don't want your engine and transmission accidentally falling on top of you. You can also stack some bricks or something underneath the control arm, it is just a precaution.
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Next you will unbolt the front subframe bolt on both sides. There is a convenient hole in the control arm to get to this bolt. I would suggest not to unbolt this bolt more than 2.5 revolutions of the wrench especially if you are not using jacks or something to hold the subframe up like I am.
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After you loosen that bolt the rear part of the subframe should fall down a good bit. You will now be able to take off the sway bar bushing clamps. Make sure and notice how the bushing is in there with the curved part and how the clamp goes on. You will need to put in the new bushings the same way and the clamp the same way.
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Here is the comparison of the old sway bar and the new one. I went with the Neuspeed 25mm one and it has worked out great. I have the 28mm sway bar in the rear and together they work great. You can find these cheap at MJM AutoHaus [/shamelessplug]
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Next you will need to take off the sway bar end links from the old sway bar and put them on the new sway bar. I purchased new sway bar end links from MJM Autohaus. While you are in there you might as well replace them.
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Now it's time to lube up those bushings. Neuspeed supplies you with a small tube of the grease that you need. It is plenty for the job. The stuff is really really sticky and hard to get off so be careful in applying it.
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Here is a picture of how I put it in. Notice I just put it in there straight from the tube, if you try to put it in there with your fingers I think it will be more of a hassle and you will get less accomplished.
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Next thing you need to do is put those bad boys onto the sway bar. They have a slit in them so that they can slip over the bar correctly. Make sure that you put them on the right way, you should be able to compare it with the old sway bar if you have any questions. The way you see it right now is how it is going to go on, with the curved part toward the back of the car.
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Next thing you do is put the sway bar in there just as you pulled out the old one. I put the sway bar at the end of the subframe, put the clamp on there, then slid the sway bar into the clamp. If you do it any other way then it is going to be nothing but a hassle to try to get that clamp on.
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Make sure that you put it in there correctly. If you have a Neuspeed bar then you should be able to read the text when you look at the bar. If it is upside down then you obviously put it in there backwards.
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To help with everything going together correctly I bolted the sway bar end links in place on both sides. I didn't tighten them all the way down yet because they are only helping with the positioning of the sway bar.
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Next you need to make sure that the sway bar is as close to centered as possible. The way that I measured it isn't the most scientific but I put my finger between the sway bar and the control arms to center it.
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Next you will need to tighten the front subframe bolt on both sides. You need to make sure that these are really tight. I will have to find the torque specs on them.
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Next is the rear subframe bolt on both sides. This bolt need to be equally as tight. Also, bolt in the bolt that goes through the control arm into the body of the car. This has to also be very tight.
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Next you can bolt in the clamp for the sway bar bushing. The reason I did this last is because it was hard to get the clamp down and bolting everything together with the new, bigger bushings. With everything bolted down the body pushes it pretty close to there it needs to be. I then used a screw driver to move it the rest of the way down then bolt it in. If you try to put it in there crooked the bolt with get cross threaded and you will be in for a headache. So just do it right and save yourself some headache. ;)
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Last thing to do is to tighten the sway bar end links on both sides.
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It is a pretty straight forward job that can be done by one person but would probably be easier with two people. I did it by myself and it took me about 1.75 hours and it was my first time doing it. I took off some bolts that weren't required to come off and that is why it took me the amount of time it took me.

Make sure that everything is bolted into place securely and that you did not forget to tighten any bolts. It is worth it to check it now while you are under the car. Also, give the car a good look under there to make sure that nothing else needs replacing.

So buy yourselves a front sway bar and get to installing! If you have any questions you can email me and I will do my best to get back to you with the answer.

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Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:20 pm
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damn nice write up, i doubt i could ever get that done lol.

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Woman:
jake. wrote:
why do people thing that there will be less traction with stretched tires? the contact points will still be the same, its only the sidewall that gets stretched.


Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:34 pm
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So what about a review? You can take turn "x" 10mph quicker now than before or somethin.

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Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:41 pm
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BMWjiggaB wrote:
So what about a review? You can take turn "x" 10mph quicker now than before or somethin.


Well if I didn't have some really stretched tires I would be able to tell you. :lol:

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:00 am
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SooprmanX wrote:
BMWjiggaB wrote:
So what about a review? You can take turn "x" 10mph quicker now than before or somethin.


Well if I didn't have some really stretched tires I would be able to tell you. :lol:


lol, i forgot you were dubbin.

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 2:35 am
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:mrgreen: :thumbsup:

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:19 am
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good write up ruben! i hate spending time under my car so i would defiantley want to do this at the auto craft shop on base, that place is the ****

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 12:43 pm
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candywhitevdub wrote:
good write up ruben! i hate spending time under my car so i would defiantley want to do this at the auto craft shop on base, that place is the ****


Can you get on base?

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 2:34 pm
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Eurostylez-VR6 wrote:
candywhitevdub wrote:
good write up ruben! i hate spending time under my car so i would defiantley want to do this at the auto craft shop on base, that place is the ****


Can you get on base?


no but quite a few peeps on here can

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 6:49 pm
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candywhitevdub wrote:
Eurostylez-VR6 wrote:
candywhitevdub wrote:
good write up ruben! i hate spending time under my car so i would defiantley want to do this at the auto craft shop on base, that place is the ****


Can you get on base?


no but quite a few peeps on here can


I can.....:ninja:

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Tue Nov 14, 2006 10:54 pm
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